A 2.5-hour round-trip hike that features history, nature, and culture all in one trail. Walk through the oak and chestnut woods of the Castelli while passing by a Renaissance villa, a Camaldolese hermitage, and an ancient Tusculum theater to reach a panoramic hilltop view..
The last time I hit the trail was in mid-October — a perfect time to admire the fall season. Wind your way past Villa Falconieri, on to the Camaldolese hermitage, and overlook vineyards changing from green to gold as you climb toward a gorgeous panorama, complete with distant fields of soft yellows.
Starting at Villa Falconieri, take a first peek through the gates to glimpse this splendid Renaissance villa, which today hosts the Academy Vivarium Novum — the first and only academy where students are immersed in Latin and Ancient Greek studies.
The dirt trail, CAI 501 Frascati – Croce di Tuscolo, begins to the right of the villa. Continue along the perimeter wall until you reach the Madonnella di Mondragone, then turn right. You’ll see vineyards in the distance, and at one point you’ll pass a few row houses before reaching a road. Cross the road — the trail continues on the left and leads to the Camaldoli Hermitage. Take a brief walk up the picturesque entranceway on the left. As the monks are dedicated to prayer, it’s likely they won’t let you in, and the sign on the door specifies that women are not allowed. Still, it’s lovely to admire the entrance with its old-fashioned doorbell and tree-lined lane. If you’re wondering what lies behind the door, the church is flanked by an infirmary, a refectory, and guest quarters. On the top floor are the monks’ cells.
The dirt trail continues to the right of the Camaldoli Hermitage — keep heading uphill. The woods here are filled with chestnut and oak trees, and wild purple cyclamen flowers decorate the forest floor during the fall and winter months. In October, we often stopped to pick chestnuts and were blessed by leaves softly floating down upon us as we walked along the trail.
Once you reach the top, the ancient Tusculum Theater and the Archaeological Area will be on your right, and to your left stands the Tuscolo Cross. You’ll be treated to a sweeping view of the Tuscolani Mountains and the Piani di Cajano. Touch the cross and take in the view — then return the way you came..
If you want to finish your walk on a healthy note, I suggest grabbing a bite at Il Borgo Verde Salad & Juice Bar in Frascati town, a café serving fresh cold-pressed juices and vegan specialties with outdoor seating overlooking the beautiful Chiesa del Gesù.
Getting there:
By car: park in front of Villa Falconieri, thedirt trail head starts to the right of the villa.
By Public transport: From the Frascati train station, walk to Piazza Marconi, then onto via Catone, and left on viale Borromini left towards Villa Falonieri.